On Sunday, dad and I crossed the river (well, two rivers, since we live in Shakopee) into Saint Paul for lunch at Little Szechuan (422 University Ave. W., St. Paul, Minn.). The restaurant features authentic Chinese cooking from Sichuan Province — known for spicier fare, to generalize.
I asked to go because I wanted to see how the fairly popular Chinese restaurant looked inside and I also needed to see what all the craze was about. In the years I’ve been gone from the Twin Cities, Sichuan-style cooking has not only emerged but seemingly flourished here. There are about a half dozen (or more?) restaurants serving it, which I think is a lot seeing as how you could barely find dim sum at six places here for a couple decades.
We ordered pork ribs with a spicy black bean sauce and a plate of stir fried lotus root. Here’s my dad’s review, paraphrased, of course:
Ribs dry and too greasy, they were old and deep-fry-reheated — the hot oil added to the black bean sauce for spice also soaked through the garnish to create a nasty-fatty looking pool by the time the ribs were half eaten. Nothing to rave about. (My review concurs.) The lotus root’s great natural crunch was nicely preserved, the spicy sauce was nice and tasty. A good execution. But our dry mouths and [Ben's] headache later suggest that perhaps too much MSG was added.
My dad readily admitted that he doesn’t like Sichuan-style cooking. He’s totally in the bag for his native Cantonese cooking. Little Szechuan was nice inside and the menu was extensive. I wouldn’t mind going back to try some of the other dishes. It’s clearly different and thus, Minnesotans have excitedly grasped the opportunity to expand their culinary horizons.
But why do the food elite have to praise the arrival of these new opportunities in gastronomical adventure at the expense of the tried and true?
I have done a tremendous amount of Googling lately — in search of trends, fads, rants, raves and anything else the great Google is willing to crawl on the topic of Chinese food in the Twin Cities.
For some reason, I keep coming back to threads like this one on Chowhound, the site for “Those Who Live to Eat.” That particular thread hailed the arrival of another new, Sichuan-province style restaurant in Chanhassen, Minn. about ten months ago. Peppered amongst the praise, though, are quasi-slights against other Chinese restaurants like ours. These online opinions tell me this: some of the Twin Cities food elite have written off Chinese restaurants like my dad’s as unauthentic and pedestrian. If a lunch buffet is served — don’t even try it. I’ve touched on some of the other things we’re up against in an earlier post.
Now, online food bloggers and commentators are going to surface the most in this quest, obviously. So I take my findings with a grain of my dad’s beloved five spice powder — it’s only a fifth of the big picture (if that!). We still have a huge audience for our food. And we’ll never be all things to all people.
But I kind of yearn for the day when Red Moon’s food will be held in a bit higher esteem among these Twin Cities foodie folk. Because I stand by this: Red Moon’s food is what it is. It is excellent.
Then again, I’m heartened by this fair-minded assumption: the opinions of 20 bloggers and comment-suppliers on a foodie blog cannot even begin to reflect the opinions of society-at-large. And who is spending money at our restaurant? Oh yeah, the people who aren’t spending their household food budgets on a dozen new places a month. They’re our regulars and they love our Chinese. Call it pedestrian if you want… but that’s the kind of foot traffic that keeps folks like us in business.

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